Natural wine in Lisbon is on the rise as local winemakers are returning to their craft’s ancient roots and catering to a new generation of eco-conscious drinkers.
More than a trend, natural wine is a return to the past. Per definition, wine is nothing more than “fermented grape juice,” and that’s pretty much what it was thousands of years ago for those lucky first wine drinkers. They didn’t have fertilizers or chemical additives; all they did was rely on nature.
So what’s the difference between conventional Portuguese wine and natural wine? Conventional wine producers are allowed to use chemicals and technology. Natural wine, however, comes from small producers who use organic farming methods, harvest their grapes by hand, and ferment it with indigenous yeasts only. Some producers might add sulfites when bottling, but for purists, this is usually a no-no.
As the demand for natural wine grows, more bars and restaurants in Lisbon are adding it to the menu. For consumers, drinking natural wine is a statement that supports local producers and ingredients, and that’s what we’re all about here at Devour, too.
In this guide, you’ll find the best places to drink natural wine in Lisbon, including a few wine shops in case you decide to take a bottle home!
Natural Wine Bars and Restaurants in Lisbon
1. Black Sheep (Príncipe Real)
Brian Patterson had been in the wine business for 20 years when he decided to trade the US for Portugal. His wife Jennifer and their dog Bear tagged along, and today they run Black Sheep in Praça das Flores.
What was once a canned fish shop has become Lisbon’s smallest wine bar. Inside you’ll find more than 100 wine labels from local producers, including organic, biodynamic, and natural wines. Brian knows most of the producers himself, so you can ask him any questions.
Every day, they offer a dozen wines by the glass ranging between €3.50 to €6.50, but you can also buy a bottle to take away. To pair with the wine, are small petiscos such as olives and sausage boards.
Insider’s tip: The bar is quite tiny. If you don’t get a seat inside, don’t worry: you can order your wine and drink it in the nearby garden.
2. Senhor Uva (Estrela)
Stéphanie Audet and Marc Davidson are another couple shaping the natural wine scene in Lisbon. Audet is a famous chef and cookbook author, and Davidson is a wine expert. They met in Canada, and after numerous trips to Lisbon, they fell in love with our wine culture (and the warm weather, of course).
Merging their passions for food and wine, they decided to open a bar in Estrela and called it Senhor Uva (Mr. Grape). As the name suggests, it specializes in wine, but there are also some veggie-friendly treats.
The menu features organic and natural wines from Portugal, as well as other countries like Italy and Austria. If you’re not sure what to order, Davidson is happy to give you a recommendation. As for food, options change daily, but there’s always artisanal bread and fresh vegetables from the local market.
3. Os Gazeteiros (Alfama)
Tucked away in the Alfama district, you’ll find Os Gazeteiros. French musician and chef David Eyguesier is the man behind this cozy restaurant and natural wine bar. Every day he curates a tasting menu with contemporary-style dishes inspired by the local cuisine.
A six-course meal costs €35, and you can add a wine pairing for €30 more. On the wine list are natural and organic wines, mostly French and Portuguese. You don’t need to go for the full wine pairing; you can also order by the glass, which starts at €3.50.
4. Prado (Chiado)
After years of working in London, António Galapito returned to his hometown to open his own restaurant. Located a few steps away from Lisbon’s cathedral, Prado stands out with its large glass windows and plants hanging from every corner.
Galapito wants to show locals and visitors the best of Portugal, from its cuisine to its wine. He teamed up with French sommelier Camille Pichery, and together they created a selection of the country’s best natural, biodynamic and organic wines.
Insider’s tip: Nearby is the Prado Mercearia, a grocery shop that sells most of the ingredients that the chef uses. If you can’t make it to the restaurant, buy a bottle of natural wine here and take it to the nearest viewpoint!
Where to Buy Natural Wine in Lisbon
Created in 2005, Os Goliardos was one of the first distributors of natural wine in the country. The family who runs it supports small European producers in countries such as Portugal, Italy, and France. You can buy wines from their online shop or head straight to their warehouse located in Campolide, which is only open Thursdays and Fridays from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
This is one of our favorite spots in the Triangle of Lisbon. It’s a mix between a wine bar and a grocery store offering more than 700 local products from small producers. Here you can find Portuguese natural wine, organic vegetables, and delicious artisanal cheese. The owner, Rita, is super friendly and will gladly chat with you about the wines and its makers. Every week she offers a selection of wine by the glass, which you can taste at the counter. Contact her before your trip, and you might get a guided wine tasting!
Just next to the Estrela garden is this tiny wine store created by Jenifer Duke. In 2017, Jenifer moved from Berlin to Lisbon and, missing the natural wine scene, she decided to start Rebel Rebel two years later. Besides selling natural wine, she also organizes events such as thematic dinners and wine tastings.Want our insider’s guide to eating in Lisbon? Just add your email address in the form below! ADD_THIS_TEXT
Joana is a Portuguese travel writer based in Lisbon. On her blog City Odes, she writes about the hidden gems of Portugal, fun road trips and train rides worth taking. When she’s not typing away on her laptop, you can find her drinking an IPA on one of Lisbon’s latest craft beer bars.