Lisbon markets are at the heart of community life.
While shopping at chain supermarkets might be more convenient for some of the locals, there’s a large part of the population who prefers neighborhood markets. Products are of better quality, seasonal, and more affordable and local, people run into familiar faces and catch up, and there’s not a better place to feel the city’s pulse. This Lisbon market guide shows you the best way to peek into the local culture.
Best Time to Visit
Typically, markets in Lisbon are open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., from Tuesday to Saturday. If you’re not looking for some specific ingredient or are just curious about the local culture, visiting by mid-morning on a weekday is ideal.
It’s neither too crowded, because most regular customers will be done by then, nor too slow, so you’ll still be able to feel that market vibe. There’s also a better chance that vendors have more time and patience to talk to you. Most of them might not speak English, but gesturing can go a long way.
Saturdays are busy from opening to closing time, so avoid this day of the week altogether if you can.
Markets in Lisbon are a combination of stalls selling fresh products with smaller stores providing other services and food courts, restaurants, or cafés. Most of them will have different business hours for the different sections, with the cafés and restaurants open until late.
Some examples are Mercado de Campo de Ourique, Mercado de São Bento, Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market), and Mercado de Santa Clara (next to the flea market Feira da Ladra that takes place every Tuesday and Saturday).
How to Shop at a Lisbon Market
At Devour Lisbon we’ve never come across a vendor who isn’t sweet, talkative, and proud of their stall. That said, they’re also straightforward and they’re not there just to chit chat. The occasional dialogue will occur between deboning a fish or bagging half a kilo of onions, but that’s part of the customer service, not the focus of your trip.
Most locals have their go-to vendor for each different product, after years of nurturing a trusted relationship. Sometimes that relationship comes from their parents and their parents’ parents. Shopping at a market can be a true family affair in Lisbon. However, newcomers are treated just as kindly.
It’s okay to browse and do some stall hopping if it’s your first time at a specific market, but don’t be surprised if the vendors start trying to lure you in. They’ll spot you’re a first-time client and highlight the freshness and the bright colors of their products. Don’t feel pressured, though. You can acknowledge their efforts with a smile and a “thank you, I’m just browsing for now” (obrigada/o, estou só a ver).
Buying fish and meat is an entirely different experience because it typically involves a longer dialogue. If you already have your mind set on what you want, first they’ll ask you how you’re cooking it (stewing, baking, frying). Then they’ll ask you for instructions on how to cut it: thicker or thinner, with or without the skin (for poultry), leave the head or chop it off (for fish).
When you’re not sure of what to buy, the dialogue is reversed. The vendor will ask you if you feel like something to stew or grill or fry, and, depending on your answer, a series of suggestions follows. It often includes sharing a family recipe or a special trick to season it.
All markets have ATM (Multibanco) machines for cash withdrawals and it’s easier, and appreciated, to always pay in cash.
Market Etiquette and Tips
If the stall you chose is crowded, memorize your place in line. There isn’t officially a formed line most of the times, but remember who was already there so you can easily see who came after you. The vendors will almost always do that for you, so you don’t have to worry too much. If you, inadvertently, cut in line, apologizing and waiting for your turn is enough to redeem yourself.
Don’t touch the merchandise without the vendor’s consent, especially fruits and vegetables that bruise up fast if every single potential client were to squeeze them for a ripeness check. No harm in pointing and asking if it’s ripe (está maduro?). The vendor will do the checking and the demonstration.
Bargaining is not a habit in Lisbon food markets. All products have the price per kilo clearly displayed, and you’re free to compare them from stall to stall if you don’t have a favorite vendor yet. For fruits and vegetables, even if budget isn’t an issue, the vendor will ask you está bom assim? (is this okay?) while weighing it on an electronic scale before closing the sale. That’s your chance to add or remove items.
Calling all curious travelers! Do you love connecting with the local community while in a new place? We’re right there with you. We’d love to keep connecting you to Lisbon through our newsletter. It comes out a couple of times a month, brimming with dispatches on culture, recipes, tips and even a discount or two!
Sandra Henriques Gajjar is a freelance web content writer and travel blogger born in the Azores and based in Lisbon for 20+ years. Since 2014 she’s been blogging about travel, culture, and the people she meets in between at Tripper, a blog on sustainable cultural tourism.